Sex, drugs and cycle paths

Amsterdam is famous for its liberal stance towards the sale of sex and marijuana. But it’s not all hash and prostitution in the Dutch capital, writes Martin Ferguson …

Amsterdam for me was synonymous with three things: the legal consumption of cannabis, the legal consumption of ‘sex for sale’ and the city’s great football team, Ajax.

All are integral parts of the city’s culture and heritage. But a three-day city break is ample time to discover there is more to Holland’s northern capital than drugs, football and ladies of the night (also available as ladies of the day).

Wrap up in Amsterdam

The weather is skin-chappingly cold in winter. Failure to pack a woolly bonnet, scarf and gloves, will lead to frustrating periods of necessary refuge in a warm hotel room. That time would be better spent visiting the fascinating museums, stylish architecture and the myriad of Argentinean and Indonesian restaurants which make this place a surprisingly cosmopolitan hodgepodge.

Getting to Amsterdam from the UK is straightforward. British Airways, BMI and KLM all fly daily between the capital city’s state-of-the-art Schiphol airport and most large British cities.

It’s a forty-minute train journey – give or take 10 minutes depending on the time of day – between the airport and Amsterdam Central Station. A ticket will set you back €5. More affluent travellers may hail a taxi for about €40 to the city centre – though the journey by road is longer than that of the rail track.

 

 

The four-star Hotel De Rode Leeuw is a 10-minute walk from the station and lies 50 metres north of Damm Square. The red light district is a teasing five-minute walk from the hotel’s front door and all the city’s museums are within, at the most, half-an-hour on foot. It could be worse than €140 for two-nights in a basic room.

Beware of lunatic cyclists

Warning: beware of insane cyclists. There are 750,000 people in Amsterdam and, according to local government statistics, more than 800,000 bikes. A tiny minority wear helmets, many ride with children or shopping balanced precariously on their handlebars, but they all share a deep contempt of the pedestrian. Care must be taken at all times not to tread unwittingly on cycle paths. Walkers will be knocked down, or, if lucky enough to escape collision, be subject to the violent ringing bells and severe verbal abuse.

 

I am not a cannabis smoker, but in the interests of journalism I felt obliged to sample the mildest herb on offer at one hash bar. I found the first few draws uninspiring and was starting to question what all the fuss was about. Complacency lead me to take a drag dangerously large for my novice standard. My skin turned white and a light film of sweat covered my entire body. After 10 minutes of severe nausea I was not sure whether I wanted to vomit or defecate. The queasiness lifted after 20 minutes and was replaced by a dumbing haze lasting several hours.

 

 

Amsterdam is blessed with a number of remarkable museums. Tickets booked online for the Rijksmuseum – Holland’s national museum – cost €11. The Van Gogh Museum – currently home to the Rembrandt Association’s 125^th anniversary exhibition – is slightly more expensive, with online tickets priced at €12.50.

The most moving visit to a museum in the city is unquestionably found at Anne Frank House. An €8 ticket grants access to the home where a young Jewish girl and her family hid from the Nazis between 1942 – 44 before being captured and taken to the concentration camps. There is never a dry eye in the house.

A large part of Amsterdam’s tourist centre is build around the meandering canals. A boat trip is essential for anyone wanting to get to grips with the make-up of the city. There are several mini-ports where these excursions can be found. Prices vary, but no one should pay more than €10 unless some form of alcoholic drink is thrown in. From the water a number of historic sites can be enjoyed, including the Mayor’s residence and a number of properties formerly owned by the country’s wealthy 17^th century merchants. Experienced guides will also explain why houses built alongside the canal are so narrow and why they lean forward.

Cafes selling marijuana can be found on most corners, though the majority are situated in and around the red light district. These establishments are well regulated by local government, but that should not signal a green light for indulgence, as I found out to my cost.  

For determined amateurs bound by a ‘when in Rome’ attitude, a safer option is the hash laden chocolate brownie, otherwise known as a space cake. Rather than bring on nausea, overindulgence leads to uncontrollable fits of the giggles. No harm in that, right? 

 

 

Droves on horny stags – almost all British I far as I could tell – are seen nightly, and daily, circling round the hundreds of red-lit windows. Most are fuelled by enough Heineken to provide them with the brass neck to negotiate a fee with the girl for sale. It is a seedy business, that is not up for debate, but the area is well policed, safe and definitely worth satisfying any curiosity.

Eating out Amsterdam is easy. There are hundreds of restaurants and something to suit all tastes – the city’s main talent. There were, for me, two surprises: most Dutch people speak impeccable English, yet menus are so poorly written you will find yourself chuckling (for those who have eaten a Space Cake before going to a restaurant, reading the menu may send you over the edge).

There are an unusual number of Argentinean restaurants. Holland’s former colonial links makes the presence of the numerous Indonesian eateries blatantly obvious, but what is the connection with South America? I asked around, but the best response I received was from the Argentine manager of La Pampa steak house next to Damm Square: “there is a demand for quality meat and the Dutch can’t provide it.” I remain unconvinced.

Two nights and three days is enough to see the majority of what Amsterdam has to offer. But unlike some other cities I have visited in Europe, I left the Dutch capital saying: “I’ll be back.”

 

Places to eat and drink in Amsterdam

Lunch at the dimly lit Cafe de Gaeper. It had a number of local dishes, including Frikandellen (basically long hot dogs), chicken satay (which the Dutch people seem to be obsessed with).

There was a good selection international dishes on the menu and plenty of wines beers and spirits.

It was also full of locals which always gives establishments in touristy places a little more credibility. The big friendly land lady teaches people how to say thank you in Dutch – Dank u wel or Bedankt.

Dinner at Indonesian restaurant Aneka Rasa.

On the menu there is one option which includes a bit of everything on the menu. That with four Indonesian beers will cost in the region of €80 but comfortably feed and water four strapping lads.

Lunch in De Beiaard micro brewery (part of a chain, there are three beer cafes in the city)

Good wholesome food on the menu at reasonable prices. It has a website where you can find a map and address but beware as the rest is in Dutch.

Dinner in La Pampa, just off Damm Square. Traditional Argentinean food. Quite pricey. Start with empanadillas, then try t-bone steak eggs chips and salad.