I whispered to the girl sitting next to me: “Where the heck is Vigo?” I was studying Spanish at university and that morning the students were finding out where they would be spending their year abroad.
I heard Madrid, Seville, Barcelona and Valencia, and salivated at the thought of either. But my name wasn’t on any of those lists. I’d never heard of Vigo before. My shoulders slumped when my name was read out. But fortunately it was the best thing that could ever have happened.
For many, the thought of Spain provokes images of beaches, sunshine, flamenco and dusty streets. Some people envisage crowds of men huddled in cafes loudly gesticulating at a Real Madrid match on TV. That’s why arriving in Vigo for the first time felt so strange. It’s not the place I expected it to be and it didn’t feel like Spain at all.
For a start, everywhere was green and hilly and the wind blowing in from the Atlantic Ocean made the air memorably refreshing. The province of Galicia is the country’s most north westerly point. Its people speak the Galician language, a hybrid of Spanish and Portuguese, and their pale skin and fair hair give away their Celtic ancestry.
In a bid to escape the baking summer heat wealthy Spaniards from Madrid and the south flock to their Galician summer houses which pepper the coast from the Portuguese border all the way north to La Coruna.
Pilgrims arriving at Santiago de Compostela’s sacred cathedral make up the bulk of tourist arrivals, and aside from a handful of visitors arriving on Clickair’s London Gatwick service and the odd cruise ship calling on a short stop-over that’s as far as it goes.
The Spaniards affectionately refer to the province as “Spain’s garden” though for many years it was known as “Spain’s forgotten corner”. When the Franco dictatorship ended with his death in 1975 Spain embraced democracy and fell in line with its European neighbours and their market capitalist system. Galicia was a province of fishermen and farmers.
So while the businessmen lived and worked in Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao and Seville, Galicia didn’t see its fair share of investment throughout the 80s and 90s. “It was as if they had forgotten we were here,” said one Galician poet.
But the Gallegos plodded on without complaint, sticking faithfully to their horse and cart culture. Sure, things have moved on slightly, though to this day the North West is the only region not linked to Madrid by the AVE, Spain’s high-speed rail network.
But times are changing. Vigo is home to more than 300,000 people. The majority is employed by the either fishing industry or at the massive Citroen car manufacturing plant in the Balaidos district. Hard labour is and ethic at its core. But like most grafters Los Vigueses know how to let their hair down.
There are more pubs, bars, cafes and restaurants than you can shake a stick at. English is not widely spoken, but like their Scottish and Irish cousins, Los Gallegos will bend over backwards to make you feel welcome. Cafes where quality tapas and wine can be bought for embarrassingly low prices are littered throughout the city.
Try Cafeteria Esquina on Avda de Castrelos where tasty treats are served with each glass of wine or beer 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Younger revellers want to head for the nightclubs at Calle Churruca, while the more sophisticated clubber will be more suited to venues on Calle Arenal.
The Casco Vello is the old centre of the city. In recent years the local government has thrown a substantial amount of money sprucing up some of the 300 year old buildings surrounding the Plaza de la Constitucion. As you wind through its narrow streets you’ll unearth a glut of tiny tabernas, mostly selling fresh mussels and clay bowls – known as tazas or cuncas – of home-made wine.
Don’t be taken aback at the low prices. The notion of profit has yet to reach many of Vigo’s tabernas, something the people are very proud of. Tips are never expected, but if you do leave a small gratuity prepare to have made a friend for life. And Los Gallegos are big on cuddles.
In contrast with Vigo’s industrial urban heart, a five minute drive from the city centre and will take you to the spectacular scenery and beaches that draw so many Spaniards to the area.
Towering above the Spanish – Portuguese border stands the imposing mountain, Santa Tecla. Drive up the winding road to its summit and pass ancient Celtic ruins, known as castros, on the way. The view over the Rio Mino (Europe’s only natural border) and out over the Atlantic is breathtaking. At this point you’ll be asking yourself: “Why don’t more tourists come here?”
En route to Santa Tecla stop off in Baiona and visit the old fortress, now owned and run as one of Spain’s well known Parador hotels. And on the roads between villages such as Gondomar and Tui break for lunch at one of the dozens of family run restaurants where the province’s acclaimed Albarino white wine can be quaffed along with the catch of the day.
Vigo and its surrounding areas remain relatively untouched when compared to other parts of Britain’s favourite holiday destination. But it won’t be like that forever.
Galicia’s infrastructure now matches that of Spain’s most developed regions. And with Ryanair and Clickair both looking at increasing services into Vigo and Santiago de Compostela airports, the rough diamond in Spain’s garden won’t be a secret for much longer.
Where to stay:
Hotel and apartments Puerta del Sol – low cost rooms in the centre of the city
http://www.alojamientosvigo.com/
Puerta del Sol 14
Vigo 36202 +34 986 222 364
Hotel Husa Ogalia – excellent service in a hotel at the heart of Vigo’s shopping district
Rua Lepanto 1
Vigo 36201
+34 986 227 726
Hotel Zenit Vigo – mid rang hotel popular with leisure and business travellers. Central location.
Avda Gran Via 1
Vigo
+34 986 417 255
Parador de Baiona – luxury 4-star hotel. The building used to be a fort. Simply stunning. 27 kms outside the city.
www.parador.es Baiona
+34 986 355 000
Pazo los escudos
Where to eat:
Cafeteria Esquina
Avda Castrelos 24
Vigo
+34 986 230 252
La Taberna de Tony
Calle Gil 2
Vigo 36203
+34 986 222 419
Restaurant Las Bridas
Calle Ecuador
Vigo 36203
+34 986 470 037
Rocamar – one of the finest seafood restraunts in the province 25 kms outside Vigo
Calle Baredo Baiona
+34 986 355 204
Asador Soriano – Vigo’s most famous fine dining restaurant. Pricey, but worth ever penny
Bembrive 2
Vigo
+34 986 481 373
How to get there:
Direct: Clickair – London Gatwick to Vigo Peinador
Ryanair – London Stansted to Santiago de Compostela (one hour 45 minutes from Vigo)
Hourly flights connect Vigo from the Spanish capital, Madrid
There are a number of car hire firms at Vigo Peinador airport and Vigo train station
Posted by maferguson1 
Posted by maferguson1 
Posted by maferguson1 
